Humans have for centuries derived pleasure and inspiration from nature, so much so, the foundation of Hinduism, the VEDAS, were supposedly written by aryan warriors bewitched by the elements around them. Thus they wrote about sun, the moon and the ever lasting sky, praised them and eulogized them so that they are worshipped ever after.
Poetry, by and large, was probably invented to describe what is indescribable by words alone, and Nature was one such thing. Plants, trees and landscapes just open up the human consciousness and uplift his inherent happiness in more ways than one. Poetry is a medium to express that part of uplifted consciousness, to reach places which couldn’t be reached by prose alone, and to feel what was being felt.
Having seen Malnadu, it doesn't take much to realize that its no coincidence that greatest poets of Karnataka were born in this region, for such is the captivating beauty of this place.
I couldn't contain myself either and was last heard blurting out limpid poetry before being calmed down by friends and well wishers.
The first stop in malnadu was sringeri.
Having visited the temple's main diety, we quickly went towards the temples' famed free Lunch system.The queuing system for sringeri's food distribution system, i was surprised and sad to say, was highly chaotic and unorganized. I have always believed that with Indians, most fights and scuffles break out with gastronomic matters. This was best exemplified by yawning and casual folks in the queue leading up the deity , but highly aggressive and pushy ones on queue leading upto the platform serving the meals.
Needless to say, we youngsters who had more muscle and nerves took advantage of the chaotic situation, slid through the gates , pushed and shoveled people out ,eventually reaching the platform in short time.
Food served here, as is no secret, pretty basic, consisting of rice and watery curry, but was nevertheless divine to taste.
Having Quickly gorged ourselves to the free Lunch, we made out the huge central porch of the temple, shot a couple of pictures and admired, as usual, good looking damsels. We also got down to the TUngA River, which while looking serene and shallow, hid rather monstrous looking fish. Luckily these fishes dont mess with humans unless messed with first.
Having done with sringeri, we quickly made it to the Local Bus station, where a "Hornadu” bus was to arrive shortly. I and mahesh ventured out to eat inthis rather small and nondescript restaurant at the bus station. As we ordered chai and bonda, the damned bus came in and led to a mini stampede by people trying to get it and reserve the seats. We ditched the local "Bondas" and chai and joined our folks jostling to get in. Not very good effort it was anyway, since we ended up sitting on the last few seats of the bus.
The drive from sringeri to hornadu would have been rather uneventful, if not for sunil , our own vin diseal,who started vomiting. Now buses were always hostile to sunil, but this one, with its lack of ventilation and the curvaceous route was too much for him. He clung on to the door, puking with utter disdain for co passengers , much to the chagrin of the conductor of the bus. Whilst the journey was throught the heart of western ghats, we couldnt observe much since light was falling rather quickly. we reached hornadu amidst huge rumors about the place being filled to the brim by bustling crowds. The jam of the roads as we approached hornadu confirmed the fact that we were entering a place packed with people.
As we got down from bus, we could see "HORDES" ,and i brook no exaggeration here, Hordes of people jostling for space. We saw these huge marches of kids, yes kids, from schoools all over india being led by the important looking "masterjis"(or teachers). Apparently, the holiday season had gotten to these schools, and most had ostensibly embarked on "Annual tours" to sringeri and Hornadu. If kids were bad enough, there were huge masses of regular travelers, descending upon this little hamlet from what seemed like the four corners of the world.
Having secured our rather clumsy luggage at the Hornadu's temple Locker rooms, we set out to find ourselves some dwelling place for the night. Now I could see immediately, from my past experience of overcrowded temple towns, that finding accommodation would be either ethereal or forbiddingly expensive. Needless to say, it was revealed by a few enquires, that the town hoteliers were out to make gold while the rush lasted. Rooms were strictly available for sums upwards of 1.6k and any enquirers who amassed courage to question the "Ethical" aspect of it were either scoffed at or rudely shunted out.
We, of course, were made of sterner stuff and on my directions, set out to execute plan B. Plan b of course, was to pitch up our thus-far-unused tents on suitable vacant ground. The idea, though repulsive to many a civilized folk, was very plausible one to us, because we were trained in camping and trekking.
so it was and we tried to break away from bustling-at-seams temple environs and headed outside into hte countryside.
Though highly cloudy and dark in the night, we couldn’t but admire for the first time, the quiescent beauty of the place we had just landed up in. Hornadu was in the middle of what seemed like dark mountains on all four sides. The wind was cool and the air was pleasant. The lack of pollution of the place caught our attention immediately.
We kept trudging along when we came across a coffee shop, a rather familiar sight in these parts, whose owner on being enquired pointed towards a huge patch of ground opposite to him as a possible camping ground. The team, for all its bravado, didn’t like the idea of pitching up tents and freezing in this open ground. We decided to walk along and find something better. then we came to this huge harvesting farmhouse not he outskirts of the town. The ground here seemed much warmer and with the hay lygin around, we could easily use it to cushion our tents.
We enquired the local workers about the feasibility of our fancies, but were reminded to get permission by their owner, a certain temple bigwig.
Shaken, but not stirred, we decided to move along until we encircled the entire temple town.
Then, something remarkable happened.
I went upto this ominous looking policeman standing and regulating the incoming vechiles ont eh road. Weary by now, i asked him rather casually where the rooms, if at all , could be got. Intially sounding official, he later divulged that it was difficult to get any room tonight and that thousands were sleeping outside.
Then, something amazing happened.
He pulled out a key from his khaki pants and flung it at me , saying that this room was booked for someone important , who having not turned up, was free , and would be now given to lucky us!
He further added that it would cost us only 80 bucks and we would have to just submit the keys when we checked out from hotel. If not for his police uniform and the guarantee of govt of India that this man was authentic, we wouldn't have believed the offer.
Thanking the police man profusely, we left the place in a hurry lest the man changed his mind!
I must say, however, at the back of my mind, that I was disappointed at not having the tents pitched up that night.
The room itself, we were to find out later, was truely amazing. It was located right behind the temple complex and had a huge room enough for four beds. it had a sufficiently clean bathroom and a wash basin to boot. All this for just 80!
It was truely a miracle and thats when i fell in instant love with Horanadu's living diety, fondly called "Annapoorneshwari".
Its a feeling that cant be described, but i felt the god was right behind my back , protecting and backing me up. I could feel that way with only Lord venkateshwara at tirupati and it was second time at horanadu.
Having picked up our bags from locker rooms, we shunted them off at our room and then headed out to settle mundane chores of having something for supper.
This too, it would be found out, no mean task, for that night this small temple town was overwhelmed by people and had virtually run out of FOOD!
Hotels and shoppes were shutting down or were desperately turning away hungry folks. It looked as if a bengal famine of british times had hit this temple town, with folks ranging from kids to haggardly looking uncles angrily cursing restaurants and bakeries.
Here again, our skills of local intermeshing came to our rescue, as we got hold of this rather non descript "MEsh' selling food at nominal prices. Here too, the seller, a elderly gentleman with roots going back to founders of temple itself, was aggressively questioned by weary looking travellers.
We finally got hold of our supper for the day, and we delightedly gorged upon whatever we got hold off. Later me and mahesh went on to a bakery and drunk pasteurized millk fresh from packets, not an entirely safe thing to do, but nevertheless had been done many times before.
Then, on my orders, we started "walking" all around the country side again, and the time was around 10 PM. Traversing roads in western ghats at night time , though around a town center, was no walk in the park for it was home to various flora and fauna. Snakes, it seems, were more common here than dogs, and one wrong step in our merry stupor would pack us up on way to valhalla.
Nevertheless, i thought that this was a worthwhile end to a supper, and would compensate for lack of any physical activity in this overcrowded place.
Having slept comfortably, we woke next day to a highly clouded and drizzling horanadu. Perhaps words couldnt justify or capture the nascent beauty of the place, for the clouds were amidst us, and the gentle drizzle seemed like a refreshing shower from above. The teeming crowds from day before didnt seem to have lessened, for we could see the same hordes of students and tourists.
We got, not without some cunning and guile, the queue leading upto the temple and within no time had a Darshan(or view) of the resident diety . Annapoorneshwari, the diety housed within complex was extremely captivating to my eye and i loved the look of the Mother godess. In fact, i would, without any hesitation say that it was the most endearing image of a DIETY along with my LORD sri venkateshwara at tirupati. I had a sneaky feeling all the while that her majesty sri annapoorneshwari was watching over us and protecting us just in a way a mother protects her children.
We later jumped on to the Breakfast queue, which was,as with all things indian involving food, more vicious and prone to belligerent outbursts of aggresssion from crowds then the main queue itself.
The breakfast intself was rather inadequate and consisted of pancakes of some sort.
We decided later, rather unanimously, to not vacate the room immediately, but stay along whilst we left town tonight. In the meantime, we hopped on to the Autorickshaw going to kalasa, a sleeping malnadu town about 9 kms from hornadu. At kalasa, the usually untimely buses heading towards kudremukha through refreshing, though not unusual , scenary of tea plantations and plush vegetation.
A couple of malnadu girls, famed for their beauty , kept our young hearts racing as i raced to capture "strategic" seats along side them. A rather avuncular gentleman reminded us that a fall called hanuman gundi was ahead and was known for its depth and leeches. It being enough to inspire us, we bought tickets for the place. After a refreshing 2 hr journey, we landed up at hanuman gundi. A fat forest dept cunningly tricked us into not bothering about tickets as we paid for his free advice regarding the Fall's depth and the danger spots.
Hanuman gundi falls was extremely beautiful, and to our surprise, teeming with tourists. Mahesh was screaming out of his lungs pointing towards the young ladies bathing in the falls and vigoursly bought out the virtues of joining them immediately.
We quickly stripped and waded though shallow water and ....the usual happened. Girls gasped for thier lives, or so it seemed, and ran for thier lives as thought we were out to get them. Some even franctically learnt to swim while doing so!
Miserable as it was, we quickly came over this dissapointment and headed upto the base of the falls.
After frolicking there, we climbed back up and headed towards kudremukha again.
Our intital plans of viewing kudremukha were quickly discarded as conductor of bus assured it was a dull and dreary place, with hardly any place worth seeing except the mud covered damn.
So we made back to kalasa and found this rather small but cozy place called sagar restaurent where we had tasty food.
Heading back , we got into an auto amidst a sudden downpour of rain. The auto driver turned out to be a rather nice guy and he promised to take us to "ambala" teeertha , which was a scenic point on the banks of river bhadra halfway between kalasa and horanadu. Ambala teertha turned out quite nice and not surprisingly had a film production crew stationed to shoot a tele series. after admiring teh leading ladies of the crew, we made out to the banks where we shot some scenic , but rather artificial sounding pictures.
The river had carved out amazing flutes and channels on the rocks below, something which captivated an educated geographer like me.
Then we headed back to horanadu, packed our bags, and then helped ourselves to a nice dinner at the annapooreshwara Mesh.
At 9 am, we checked out our rooms, and to our surprise found the receptionist not demanding any money at all!. so it was free accommodation , valued at around 1600 per day for 2 entire days! It coulndt be short of miracle and i thanked her majesty sri annapoorneshwari for her kindness.
We landed then at the bus stand, where we found our to-be bus to be a vintage model of KSRTC.
On enquiry , it transpired that the original bus had met with a problem and was thus replaced with a "suitable" one.
After few squabbles with conductor and the co passengers, we finally got rather airy(not a great idea in this cold damp region)seats at the back of the bus. Later that night, we froze like jim carrey and his buddy on way to aspana in the movie dumb and dumber, but the pleasure of reaching bangalore compensated for this and we were left with only sweet memories of a excellent trip that was......